Puligny-Montrachet 2012, Jacques Carillon
Most aficionados know the story of the Louis Carillon domaine which was split between brothers Jacques and François in the mid-2000s. This 2012 has a nose of lemon pith, limestone, dried pineapple. Also almond, thyme and dried apple. Clearly showing its age and it comes across as an earnest philosopher. On the palate this Puligny-Montrachet 2012 is dense, punchy, long, sappy and dominated by lemon and cooked lime flavours. Concentrated without being rich. Salty, intense, inscrutable. Impressive but weirdly joyless. Scores 80/100.