Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “La Romanée” 2016, Domaine des Varoilles

At present I am finding that if a wine is confusing it is probably a 2016. Some wine-makers (more on the Côte de Nuits) believe that it will turn out to be one of the best vintages in the last ten years. But it’s essential to wait. Others, especially white producers, don’t sing its praises. Only time will tell. This Gevrey 1er Cru, which is a monopole, of the Domaine des Varoilles is perfumed on the nose, hints of vanilla, but fairly quiet. Very dense, fiery and hefty on the palate. Plum and cherry fruit. This is a wild boar of a wine which is snarling and shrouded in thorns. Scores 75-88/100. Hard to know how it will turn out.

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