Gevrey-Chambertin “Champs Chenys” 2016, Joseph Roty
Recap on the 2016 vintage: frost in late April, followed by mildew and then hail later in the growing season. Warm and sunny July, August and September salvaged the crop. Some appellations lost 90% of their grapes resulting in higher prices than the much better 2015 vintage. 2016 Burgundies are very, very inconsistent even within the portfolios of the same grower. Grapes at one end of a row of vines were hit by frost and mildew whilst at the other end they produced ripe, concentrated berries. This 2016 Gevrey has chunky plum fruit, heavy tannins and a beastly look at about it. Some funky notes worthy of the Red Rooster in Harlem. Tasted at the Corney & Barrow 2017 tasting I was left wondering how merchants will shift their 2016 stocks when 2017 is the same price or slightly cheaper and so much tastier, charming and more consistent.