Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "En Remilly" 2012, Hubert Lamy
In the last 18 months I have cracked open too many bottles which I had stored for too long. So I thought that with the 2012s having gone past 5 years since the harvest and getting on for 4 years in bottle for white wines, now was the time to strike. I was rewarded by my decision. This Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly, a vineyard which sits above Le Montrachet, has an initial nose of lemon sponge cake. A soupçon of white truffle. Dried pineapple, slightly creamy, hint of vanilla, a subtle nose, getting on for mysterious. More of a crossword than a poem. This Saint-Aubin 2012 is wonderful on the palate. A perfect texture resulting from the integration of the fundamental elements, medium acidity, cylindrical fruit with no sharp edges. There is saffron, white honey, cooked lemon, yellow apple, saline and appetizing. A fine wine, as the great Clive Coates would say. Main conclusion: 2012 white Burgundies are approaching their apogee! Scores 81/100. Photo shows Saint-Aubin seen from the hamlet of Gamay in late July 2010.