Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "Derrière Chez Edouard" VV 2014, Hubert Lamy
The 2014 vintage in Burgundy was probably the most challenging for pinot since 2004. I wonder what will happen in 2024? This was a vintage with a pleasant spring and a wet and cool summer. Whilst conditions improved in late August and September, the lack of heat and sun through the middle of summer has resulted in wines that lack ripeness. Well situated sites in villages like Volnay and Pommard (at least those not pummelled by hail) will have achieved full phenolic ripeness. But sites at higher altitudes or with a less southerly exposition, like this Saint-Aubin, didn't quite achieve full ripeness. This 2014 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru from the well-respected Hubert Lamy domaine run by Olivier Lamy now for many years has a bright ruby colour. The nose is an explosion of fresh berry and red tree fruit fruit with a noticeable oak edge. The red cherry and red plum melds with licorice and over a few minutes the nose becomes sweeter with a dab of raspberry and red apple. Medium plus acidity on the palate, it's definitely tangy, the tannins show some rusticity, overall a bright and lively wine. Softened overnight in the bottle which suggests another 2-3 years of bottle age will result in a more enjoyable wine. I'm missing the impact of the vieilles vignes which usually adds depth and ripeness. I'm not complaining but nor am I thrilled. Scores 65/100 with potential to improve to 70/100.