Willamette Valley "Mt Jefferson Cuvée" 2013, Cristom

At a recent wine-tasting event at The Clocktower in NYC I stimulated a mostly well-meaning discussion about Oregon vs California vs Burgundy. Obviously there is no competition but it is interesting to compare! This Cristom 2013 from the Willamette Valley (non-Oregonians must go there to learn how to pronounce the appellation) is a good example of what we discussed re Oregon. It seems to me the wine-maker is trying to make Burgundy-style pinot but in doing so has had to restrain the 'wilderness' characteristics of a good Willamette. Good berry nose, aniseed, some sous-bois, medium to low tannins, ripe and fresh berry fruit. Well-made yet inoffensive and therefore lacking in character. The moral of the story. Willamette should be itself, not a pale imitation of Gevrey-Chambertin. Scores 19/30 for a Willamette.  


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