Chambolle-Musigny 2011, François Bertheau

Perhaps it is a mildly underperforming bottle, the impact of the light 2011 vintage or a dip in form as the wine hits its 3-4 year mark, but this is not as good as I remember from a wonderful tasting at the domaine with M. Bertheau who bears an uncanny resemblance to one of my musical heros, Sting. This pinot has a light cherry colour it is very transparent, what the wine-maker at Domaine de Courcel would call "léger". The first nose combines vanillins, shiitake mushrooms and some background bright raspberry aromas. Frankly, its a bit twiggy in the glass. Just not enough fruit. Lean on the palate, very tight, tights plus I'd say. Short, tangy finish with too much citrus and rhubarb and not enough ripe berry fruit so the trademark Chambolle sensuality and silky texture isn't there. I hope this is a slightly off bottle as opposed to being representative of the lean and light 2011 vintage. Not the message in a bottle I was expecting!


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