Volnay 1er Cru "Les Santenots Du Milieu" 2008, Arnaud Ente

Arnaud Ente's domaine is a classic small-scale Burgundy operation. With just a handful of appellations he emphasizes the rarity value of his wines with a label that informs one that this bottle is one among "826 bouteilles et 60 magnums". This Volnay 1er Cru has a sombre, intense dark cherry colour. Brooding. The aromatics have moved on to nutmeg, aniseed and cinnamon spice with an undertow of baked blackberries and roast duck. This is a serious wine with surprisingly thick tannins, hefty plum and cherry fruit -- definitely on the stone fruits not the berries. Mouthfilling and savoury with some over-stewed black breakfast tea tannins. Possibly affected by the 2008 hail which has resulted in a mouth-puckering dryness on the finish. Surprisingly -- given other 2008s have been very open since 2013 -- this wine needs another 3-4 years to fully express what I am sure will be an intriguing bouquet. Already an ideal companion for duck and prok pate en croute and rack of lamb served at our Thanksgiving feast. Scores 21-22/30 for a Volnay 1er Cru.