Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "Les Frionnes" 2011, Hubert Lamy
I finally completed my pilgrimage to Saulieu today, where the rustic heart of Burgundian cooking, Le Relais de Bernard Loiseau is located. One wants to avoid messing up a trip to a restaurant with three Michelin "macarons" as the French call them so I opted for a trusted friend in the form of a wine from Olivier Lamy who still sells under his father's name. Needless to say the food was stunning: tartare of black prawns from the African coast, a sublime river trout served with what could be the world's best ever sauce, another fresh water fish only recently discovered in Alpine lakes delicately presented with ultra-fresh herbs, etc... The Frionnes 2011 was already on the front foot: pear and peche de vigne on the nose, a good depth and texture, pleasant length and consistency. Scores 24/30 for a Saint-Aubin 1er Cru. And for all you Bay Area foodies operating within a budget two people can dine at the Relais of Bernard Loiseau for the price of one at Saison and the food is twice as tasty not to mention the portions being more healthy. And a converted warehouse near the baseball stadium in downtown SF doesn't compare with an elegant garden in rural Burgundy. Still a long way to go. Photo shows Saint-Aubin on July 12.