At a birthday party in Puligny, the host said I should really try the wine he had just opened: a jeroboam of 2004 Bâtard from the legendary Chassagne producer Domaine Ramonet. This Bâtard-Montrachet 2004 was unlike any other wine from that august appellation I have tried before. Instead of being plump, rich and luxuriating in apricot and peach fruit this was a svelt, stylish and refreshing wine with a mid-slope calcaire nose combined with lemon tart and orange blossom. I felt the wine would evolve more aromatic complexity over time but the mayor of Puligny told me I was wrong. So be it! This Bâtard '04 really comes into its own on the palate with a superbly elegant structure, very fine fruit and an incredible length. Simply from a stylistic point of view this wine is unique and memorable. Scores 27-28/30 for a Bâtard-Montrachet grand cru. This would stand out as a Ramonet in a blind tasting but it would be exceptionally hard to identify as a Bâtard. Photo shows Bâtard vines on the Chassagne side looking south towards the Côte Chalonnaise hills in the distance.