Clos de Vougeot 2011, Méo-Camuzet

I openly admit that Clos de Vougeot is my least favoured grand cru. Why struggle through the structure and brutality if you could have a Charmes-Chambertin, Corton-Renardes, Clos des Lambrays or more to the point a lovely, reasonably-priced Echezeaux? This Clos de Vougeot 2011 from Méo-Camuzet starts with a big blob of cherry, it is heavy and closed on the nose. Smooth cherry fruit wanders over the palate, there is grip worthy of Hulk Hogan, tannins, huge granite boulders. Could be incredible in 2025... Scores 22-25/30 for a Clos de Vougeot.

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