Vosne-Romanée 2004, Robert Arnoux

Ahhh that most troublesome of vintages 2004. Aromas of hawthorn, plum stones, red rhubarb, lychen, red currant and raspberry canes. As much as one can hope for even from a Vosne. Tight, linear, moss-edged red currant, rhubarb and loganberry fruit. Does everything can be expected from a vintage where the best winemakers had to squeeze the final drop of sugar from each grape. A short finish. Robert Arnoux has managed to eliminate the worst aspects of 2004 but it was beyond any Côte de Nuits producer to turn a 2004 into a pleasant wine. I always groan when I see red 2004 on restaurant wine lists. No sommelier should knowingly foist such stunted wines on their clientele, it is cynical in the extreme. Scores 15-17 / 30 for a Vosne (which is pretty good for an '04).