Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 1993, Jean Raphet

This domaine is based in Morey and has a fairly low profile -- there are few mentions of the Jean Raphet domaine in the usual Burgundy guides. Gerard Raphet took over recently from his father Jean. Tasting almost 20 year old pinots is a bit like playing pot luck, they can be amazing, weird or dull. This Gevrey grand cru has a cherry colour with an orange rim. Aromas of saddle leather, licorice, cooked orange rind. Moves on to pheasant. Wonderfully integrated orange and red currant flavours then morello cherry. As usual in older wines, the ripe fruit dissipates and the acidity comes to the fore. Hint of schnapps on the back palate. Finishes on rye bread and roast lamb aromas. Good, interesting and a tad weird. On the downward slope of the maturity plateau.


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