Romanée St Vivant Grand Cru 1997, Domaine Leroy

The world famous Domaine Leroy owns almost a full hectare of Romanée St Vivant. Even acquiring a bottle of grand cru from Domaine Leroy is worthy of a novella by Kafka. People who buy direct from the Domaine must do so every year. And this involves pyramid selling -- for each bottle of Leroy grand cru one has to buy a stipulated minimum of Leroy villages wines (which are also excellent) as well as a case or so of the Leroy collection wines which I am informed are unpredictable (and not made by Leroy). Enough of the brand, what about the wine? Tasted as one of four grands crus at Bibendum this 1997 Romanée St Vivant started on a stalky, red currant nose. Evolves to violets, really floral. Then the leaves waft back in. On the palate dried cranberries, wild strawberry jam, elements of oak. Nose continues on green tea, possibly brown rice tea and raspberry leaf. An intriguing wine. A very generous contribution to the Bibendum Burgundy dinner. Does it live up to the hype? I'm afraid not quite. Doesn't come close to the Echezeaux 2000 from DRC. Which is a fair comparison.


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