Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Au Closeau" 2008, Drouhin-Laroze

A third "Au Closeau" tasted at the domaine in Gevrey in May 2011 during a calorific lunch with a wonderful view of the vineyards behind the house. The media didn't like 2008 pinots much -- too difficult, problems with ripening the grapes. But many wine-makers expect it will be superb. The finely-poised characteristics remind me of 1989 which provided stunning beverages like the Chambertin 1989 from Rousseau. This Gevrey 2008 has a pheasant nose, its heady and really gamey, there is cinnamon, star anise, dried orange. volatile compounds. Remarkable stuff! I've heard of inorganic chemistry and that's what this is. Fresh acidity, orange, bright raspberry, possibly a tad too narrow on the palate right now. This will be incredible if it fills out over the next 2 years. Must wait until 2014 before indulging. Compare with the 2006 and 2007 from the same vineyard to understand quite how special this is.


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