Echezeaux Grand Cru 2004, Robert Arnoux

This domaine is based in Vosne-Romanée and is run by Pascal Lachaux who took over the wine-making from Robert Arnoux in the 1990s. Like Dr Burgundy, he studied oenology at Dijon University, not that such a minor fact influences the integrity of my tasting notes! Echezeaux is the ultimate beginner's grand cru. Unlike the surly Clos de Vougeot or the prohibitively expensive Musigny, it is approachable and enjoyable. This Echezeaux flies the flag for the lieu-dit. A thick black cherry colour with thick tears announced a nose of baked myrtilles, black currant stalks and moss. The aroma of the old newspaper in Autine's wardrobe and matchbox wafts in and out -- the defining characteristic of all Côte de Nuits 2004s. Then this wine shines on the palate: cherry fruit, a hint of toasted barrels, surprisingly ripe fruit, a dose of oven-roast lamb, good black fruits, fresh finish, good extraction and finesse for a 2004. This wine is long! Fairly potent with a patch of lingering sourness on the upper palate. A superb result for the troublesome 2004 vintage. Perfect with a lamb casserole. Photo shows the Echezeaux vineyard on August 10th 2011. And with the euro crashing to €1.18 / £1.00 "les anglo-saxons" will be stocking up on Echezeaux in 2012!


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