Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru "Les Amoureuses" 2004, Amiot-Servelle

I have visited this family-run domaine in Chambolle several times over the years. The cellar is particularly hobbit-like. More Underhill than Baggins. "Les Amoureuses" sells at a premium to other Chambolle 1ers crus because it is just down the slope from "Musigny" and it also has a highly marketable name perfectly designed to fleece young gentlemen on St Valentine's day. This 2004 has an initial nose of bread, granite, dust, limestone (more white Premeaux than pink Chassagne). Green pepper, dried plum, savoury... almost bitter. Intense plum, sour black cherry, licorice root, tree bark. Short, like a midget with an attitude (eg in Time Bandits). Better than some 2004s. Angular, awkward, interesting. I don't think Saint Vincent would proffer it as a gift to Saint Valentine.


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