Volnay 1er Cru "Le Ronceret" 2000, Jean-Marc Boillot
Over the years I have enjoyed many excellent wines - both white and red - from Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot based in Pommard. While 2000 was over-rated in Bordeaux (the link between the birth of Jesus and the quality of merlot and cabernet sauvignon grapes two thousand years later being a spurious and somewhat cynical marketing wheeze in my opinion) it was under-rated in Burgundy. This Volnay 1er Cru 2000 captures the essence of the vintage: within seconds of opening a deep, seductive, ripe nose of raspberry coulis and cassis urges itself out of the glass. Licorice, a hint of juniper and autumn leaves. The fine and sweet red berry fruit aromas linger on and on. Fresh red currant and black currant acidity makes this a lively wine to taste. Un vin digeste. The fruit is less present than on the nose as this 2000 is gently sliding into a savoury structure with lighter fruit texture. Best imbibed with a juicy wild pigeon cooked in the pot or duck served with a cherry sauce. But the first aroma is all this Volnay needs to offer to satisfy the hedonistic pleasures of a pinot lover!