Montrachet Grand Cru 2009, Domaine des Comtes Lafon
This wine needs no introduction. When I asked Dominique Lafon why the terroir is so special he shrugged his shoulders and said something like "When you look at the vineyard its not obvious". This is true. The Montrachet vineyard is just a slight rise on the Côte -- the magic is below the soil. Success breeds success. Tasted from the barrel at the domaine this Montrachet 2009 comes from a horse-ploughed vineyard which avoids compacting the soil and the vines are 50 years old. Dominique Lafon always ensures there is sufficient sugar in the grapes to achieve 13.5% alcohol which is needed to balance the natural acidity of the terroir. This grand wine is currently concealed in its structure of ripe apple and pear fruit, underlying acidity and bonne matière. The quality is obvious but one can not force the tenor to sing! The photo shows Montrachet vines in June 2007.