Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2004, Pierre Amiot & Fils
This domaine is based in Morey and has a couple of grands crus and premiers crus. As we all know, the 2004 on the Côte de Nuits (much less so on the Côte de Beaune) was horrific. I confess that I gave my femme de menage a bottle of Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru "Les Amoureuses" 2004 from Amiot-Servelle to share with her husband on the basis that she wouldn't realize that 2004 was a real stinker (she said it was very nice). When tasting a grand cru I believe one should start from a hypothetical benchmark of what one expects: complexity, balance, class and a wow factor. This Clos Saint Denis 2004 has an impressive plum and date colour. Cooked plum, baked cherry and arrow root aromas. Lingering cherry stone and cassis bark scrapings. A dash of orange sanguine. Spicy cooked oranges, ripe red currant and logan berry. Saline rather than sweet. This Clos Saint Denis 2004 grand cru is interesting and appetizing but not impressive or enormously enjoyable. Worth comparing with the Clos de la Roche 2004, a Vosne-Romanée 2004 from Robert Arnoux and a Chassagne 2004 from Hubert Lamy.
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