Corton-Charlemagne 2004, Vincent Girardin

White wines from négociant Vincent Girardin virtually always satisfy. They are a safe bet so when I was asked to select a wine for a New Year's Eve dinner my pinot-tainted paw alighted on a half case of Corton-Charlemagne. The wine has a thick yellow colour like freshly cut oak. Viscous legs. Immediately open nose of vanilla, butter, lemon sponge cake, vanilla yoghurt. Sweetness obscures the lingering ripe citrus fruits. This Charlemagne is very round, beaucoup de gras, pear, orange and late summer green gauge flavours. Mouth filling with gorgeous length. Like looking at Marilyn Monroe in a bikini: just enjoy, don't analyse!


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