Volnay "Les Echards" 2008, Sébastien Magnien

The 2008 vintage was presented to the world by the wine journalists with much trepidation and gnashing of teeth. Fears for the ripeness of the pinot grapes (possibly combined with Lehman Brothers going bankrupt) sent prices tanking. My experience of 2008 pinots is that quality producers have created some wonderful, subtle and complex wines. Others have made green monsters. This Volnay thankfully is in the first category: perfumed elegant berry aromas, erring on blackberries due to late picking after the rains had gone, decent tannins, minerality. But this wine needs time to soften! Bloody tannic for a Volnay, strong cassis flavours, because the grapes were left on the vine to dry and produced a concentrated wine. The same result as in the Rousseau tasting from the barrel in July 2009. Forget about the over-priced 2009 vintage -- go big on 2008 from top producers. Remember Rousseau 1989 vs Rousseau 1990?


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