Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune 2006, Capitain-Gagnerot
The Hautes Côtes vineyards sit on the hills above the Côte d'Or proper. The higher altitude makes the whites and reds a good buy in warm vintages like 2003, 2005 and 2006. In cooler vintages like 2004 and 2008 the reds can be jolly unpleasant due to the lack of sugar in the grapes when harvested. Thankfully this white Hautes Côtes de Beaune from the trusty Capitain-Gagnerot stable is a classic. A thick yellow colour announces a fundamentally savoury wine typical of the terroir: aromas of warm sand, white asparagus, dried orange, boiled egg yolk and a crumble of pie crust. This is a pithy and sappy wine on the palate with a broad orange flavour that is simple and strong. Ideal for hearty Burgundy offal dishes like tête de veau (as shown above) or salade de museau.