Auxey-Duresses 2006, Alain Gras

The fat man cometh. And I am not talking about erstwhile Burgoblog contributor Tom "Chubbie" Cobbold, since he is now slim as a rake. No, I refer to Alain Gras, a name written on the wrappers of brie and camembert cheeses, "50% matiere gras". The phenomenon of "le gras" also exists in wine, referred to as "fat" by English speakers. The wine tasting American Robert Parker often refers to a wine "putting on fat". Back to business. A rich, reflective mid-gold colour reminiscent of Flaubert's description of ancient goblets glittering in candlelight on the feasting table of Carthage. On the olfactory bulbs? Vanillins, orange marzipan from Budapest and a bit of blonde minge sprinkled with cloves. Round, fully mature, very enjoyable with tannic grip and a good savoury/fruity balance. Possibly a blodge of gras on the finish. Another very enjoyable Alain Gras wine the maestro of St. Romain. Interesting to compare with the same wine tasted in March 2009.


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