Volnay Vieilles Vignes 2004, Jean-Marc Bouley
For all wine-makers of the Côte d'Or, 2004 was a difficult pinot vintage with the red producers in the Côte de Beaune having a slightly easier time than those further north on the Côte de Nuits. This Volnay, made from old vines, has a red-foxy colour. Entertaining aromas in the sweet herbal range of oregano and marjoram. Licorice, gamey. Good balance on the palate but possibly too much new oak for the vintage and the wine is drying out a little (due to the lack of fruit ripeness). This domaine produced very good wines in 2004 compared to many other quality producers but even here one needs to drink up. Allez cul sec!