Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "Derrière Chez Edouard" 2004, Hubert Lamy

The terroir "round the back of Edouard's place" must have been in the shade in 2004. This Saint-Aubin from the Domaine Hubert Lamy, now made by his son Olivier, possesses a pleasing deep red colour, but the nose is stalky, uncooked sushi rice, wheat ears, birch bark, cranberry and morello cherry. Green tannins, tangy, not unpleasant but the domaine didn't manage to cope with the lack of sunshine in 2004. You could say true to the vintage -- and it was a poor one. The worst I have tasted since 1987. Photo shows the Lamy family (on the left) and a random bunch of French tasters in May 2006.

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