Santenay "Les Charmes Dessus" 1988, Claude Nouveau

What is the optimum length of time to keep a red Burgundy? Tasted blind in the wine mecca of Saffron-Walden I had this down as a 2000 Beaune. So only 12 years out when the label was revealed. Its fascinating on the nose but over the hill on the palate. The brick red colour announces a nose of orange peel, shitake and oak which evolves into roast partridge bones, redcurrant, sous bois, balsa and iodine. The fruit has dried out on the palate making it savoury, dry and tangy. Past its peak on the palate 4 years ago but the complex nose makes up for it. A "Tongs over the Cradle" special. The Claude Nouveau domaine has a splendid website.


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