Chassagne-Montrachet "La Goujonne" 1999, Domaine Hubert Lamy
This Chassagne from the domaine Hubert Lamy in Saint-Aubin has a wonderful rich purple colour. But it is strangely mute on the nose offering subtle aromas of minerals, quartz, damson and tree bark. (A fellow diner suggested the wine is like a beautiful woman without make up. Wine-tasting is always a personal affair and I had no clue what this person was talking about. Anyway, there it is -- for what its worth. What a statement! And what does it mean?) Yet this Chassagne comes into its own with a lovely depth of plum fruit, black cherries and bright berries in a well-evolved structure. In two more years the aromas could well open up again.