Chablis 1er Cru "Côte de Léchet" 2004, Isabelle et Denis Pommier

The risk with Chablis is that one treats it like the music of Mozart. The wine is so well known that one assumes it is too popular to be excellent. As any true music lover knows this is a crazy belief. Many Mozart works and performances are rare. For example, try and find a performance of Il Re Pastore. The name order on the bottle of this Chablis makes it clear who is wearing the trousers in the Pommier household. And this accords with the style of the wine. This Côte de Léchet is a refreshing colour, subtle aromas of apple blossom, lemon tart and mineral; bright, zesty and a touch cruel on the palate. An attractive little number that leaves one wondering what will come next.

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