Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2000, Domaine des Lambrays
Served in the deceptively copious magnum format prior to, as a compliment with and posterior to a Shanghai spiced duck dish. The initial aromas were reticent even in the decanter. But after an hour's aeration whiffs of black truffle, iberico ham, smoked beech wood and strawberry-marinaded aubergine tickled the nostril hairs. You may think I'm making this up. But you would be wrong. And given the rarity of magnums of Clos des Lambrays 2000 I doubt anyone will be able to prove me wrong! This Burgundy grand cru achieved a cat-like balance, marrying sweet raspberry and cherry fruit flavours with a savoury edge and cinnamon spice. Like other 2000s this wine is all about elegance and flavours not puissance and charpente. If only one had two magnii!