Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Folatières" 2004, Jean-Louis Chavy

Jean-Louis Chavy is one of the sons of Gérard Chavy. Jean-Louis set up his own domaine about 5 years ago and has a decent collection of 1er cru Puligny vineyards. His brother, Alain Chavy still runs the Domaine Gérard Chavy. He is a relatively new producer and I found this Folatières middle of the road. The wine ticked all the boxes: good fruit, balance, acidity, pleasant aromas of icing sugar, lemon and pastry. At this stage in its evolution there was no wow factor -- something one expects from a vineyard of the Folatières quality. I wouldn't discount the wine or the producer since other Puligny 2004s recently tasted from Domaine Leflaive and Jean Pascal & Fils have not been forthcoming. By contrast, Chassagne 2004s have been very upfront so if you face the choice in a restaurant opt for Chassagne. The reticent Puligny minerality will open up from 2010. Photo shows the Folatieres vineyard in June 2007.

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