Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru "Les Rouges" 2006, Etienne Grivot

I don't know the etymology of this vineyard... however calling a premier cru "Les Rouges" in - of all places Vosne - verges on the super-naff. Perhaps Puligny has a vineyard called "Les Blancs"? Whatever the name alludes to this turned out to be an absolute monster of a wine. Starts on brilliant ripe concentrated berry fruit with real freshness. Creates a sense of foreboding. Take a swig and you are hit by a windmill of tannins with mouth-puckering chewiness that conjure images of crunching the Eiffel Tower. This impresses by expectation not experience. Try some 1989, 1992 or 1995 to work out whether you want to buy 2006. For those with deep cellars.

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