Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2017, Jean-Noël Gagnard

The wines from Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard are produced by his daughter Caroline Lestimé who returned to Chassagne from Paris in 1989 and undertook oenological studies in Dijon. The domaine has one of the most impressive portfolios of Chassagne premiers crus and also vinifies an excellent Bâtard-Montrachet of which there are usually 200 cases available. The Bâtard-Montrachet will set you back £433.33 per bottle in bond for the 2017. Ouch! "Les Caillerets" is considered to be the best positioned Chassagne premier cru. This 2017 version is very full, rich, deep, luxurious and impressive. The style is perhaps more tuned into the Manhattan lobster in lobster sauce crowd than the Padstow grilled Dover sole people. But food and wine are entirely a matter of personal taste. This is very good but at £91.67 per bottle in bond from Justerini & Brooks it is a bit too Manhattan for this humble taster.