Volnay 2006, Jean-Marc Bouley

Clive Coates refers to the 2006 vintage as being inconsequential when initially tasted due to a wet August and a patchy September which reduced fruit ripeness and forced the harvest onto growers. I agree with his later assessment (made in 2009) that the wines are medium-bodied, plump, fruity and pleasant. Not so much fresh. This Volnay 2006 from the reliable house of Jean-Marc and Thomas Bouley has evolved very well and retained some poise but was definitely consumed 2-3 years post-peak. Initial nose of aniseed, cherry, plum, a touch of dried cranberry, moss, beech tree twigs, dried chanterelles, dried seaweed. On the palate it is fully savoury, dominated by black tea and dried Chinese plums. Interesting to try at the end of its life. Scores 67/100.