Anderson Valley 2013, Ant Hill Farms

On my recent return to NYC I dropped into Flatiron Wines which has a tremendous selection of pinots. As I have heard rumours that California wine-makers have realized that masses of ripe jammy fruit and potent alcohol do not a fine wine make, I thought I'd try something new. This Anderson Valley 2013 pinot from Any Hill Farms is a semi-opaque, black cherry colour. Its viscous yet has a curiously watery rim, murky but not thick and a very slight spritz. Not ideal! Immediately open plum and cherry nose which is ripe to over-ripe. Touch of strawberry jam. Exhibits the aromas of a warm to very warm region. Very ripe blueberry. Sweet vanilla and ends on egg custard. Medium plus fruit, medium velvety tannins with low granularity. Flavour profile reminiscent of summer pudding. Not much evolution on the nose away from the very ripe berry and black/red tree fruits. Finishes on a strawberry coulis and baked clafoutis (cherry pudding) taste. What can I say? Enjoyable wine but still very much a prisoner of the very warm region and I am doubtful that it is possible to produce pinots with real finesse in this region. It's not an old world/new world thing given what has been achieved in Central Otago. It's just terroir and climate.


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