Saint-Aubin 1er Cru "Les Frionnes" 2004, Hubert Lamy

This Saint-Aubin from the mineral 2004 vintage has a surprisingly light hay colour unlike other 2004s which have shown much more age in the glass, such as the Chassagne from Guy Amiot. The nose is still tight and conjures an image of a lemon-flavoured beech tree trunk. There is citrus, sandalwood and vanilla. Not very complex. In fact more like a heavily-oaked Burgundy with 2 years of bottle age. Savoury, tangy, a lemon wrapped in oak leaves. Pleasant but lacking in elegance and complexity. Scores 21 / 30 for a Saint-Aubin 1er Cru.