Bourgogne Blanc 2009, François Carillon

Tasted at the Berbecoa restaurant with a view over St Paul's Cathedral, the restaurant hangs under the Jamie Oliver shingle. This Bourgogne blanc from one of the top Puligny domaines was a pleasant reminder of the juicy 2009 vintage. Open nose of pear, apricot and a hint of crème patissiere. Round, balanced and fruity on the palate. Un vin gouleyant. I realize the focus of Berbecoa is steak but I was not overwhelmed by the calamari starter. The chicken breast with blackened corn and deep-fried banana was better. I am still far from convinced that Jamie Oliver restaurants can get beyond the basic format of the chef's "pub grub" philosophy. Feels more like a socialist experiment. The wine scores 25/30 for a Bourgogne blanc.


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