Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Chenevottes" 2004, Bernard Moreau
Bought at the domaine in 2006 during a tasting that revealed Domaine Bernard Moreau to be a high class outfit producing wines of purity and complexity. Amazingly I have not opened any of the Chenevottes 2004 prior to this bottle. What patience! This chardonnay from the village of Chassagne has a radiant white gold colour. After some aeration there are aromas of baked lemon, orange marmalade, vanilla, marzipan. There are appealing flavours of pear, cherry and orange, tarte citron and green banana. It is still fresh. Despite having lost its linearity and attach due to the 9 years of bottle age this Chassagne 1er Cru retains a fresh uplift from a tangy citrus sourness and finishes on a sumptuous limoncello-textured note. This tremendous wine now stands at the dividing line between hope (youth) and despair (age). Scores 26 / 30 for a Chassagne 1er Cru. A benchmark for quality, depth and complexity.