Who said 2004 was awful for red Burgundy? I did, for one. But it turns out that the Cote de Nuits was bad whereas on the more southerly Cote de Beaune those extra two to three days of sunshine pushed ripeness levels from green to tangy. This Beaune 1er cru from the venerable Domaine Anne-Francoise Gros in Pommard has a deep red colour and is very slightly petillant. Glorious pinot nose of raspberry, black currant, dried blackberry and aniseed. Bright loganberry, black currant and apple stalks on the palate. All good though: the soupcon on stalk is fully melded with fresh berry flavours. Really fresh tannins, wrapped in just-ripe berry fruit. Slightly dry, balsa and walnut skin finish. Yet more proof of the eminence of this domaine which focuses on fine quality, terroir and the most charming feminine marketing. Photo shows the Beaune vineyards looking south towards Pommard.