Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru "Les Fichots" 1999, Domaine Follin-Arbelet

This wine makes me think about the darkest depths of the Great Recession. Bought from one of the better London wine merchants in a fire sale of their mature wines this Pernand-Vergelesses possibly helped the firm survive cash flow crunch. If so, I am very happy. Good wine merchants deserve to keep supplying glorious wines like this to the likes of Dr Burgundy. Aha! The cat is out of the bag. For this is a delightful example of a mature pinot let loose in its prime. Elegant, transparent pinot-cherry juice colour, roasted-pheasent-blood-on-the-baking-tray nose muddled with cooked apple, plum and cherry. An edge of blood orange juice, trompettes and game gravy. Softened tannins but that granitic Pernand structure is still there. This wine is tremendously appetising and would suit a robust rognon de veau at a restaurant in the Place de l'Odeon, Paris. Wonderful.

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