Nuits-Saint-Georges 2005, Henri Gouges

The Domaine Henri Gouges, currently administered by two grandsons of the original Henri Gouges, Christian and Pierre is one of the stalwarts of the Nuits Saint Georges appellation. The domaine owns 14.5 hectares including 6 Nuits St Georges permiers crus. Tasted at the three michelin star Fat Duck restaurant in Berkshire, the sommelier tried to stop me ordering this wine in favour of a Volnay from the Marquis d'Angerville. I persisted and rightly so (I state openly that sommeliers rarely know more than Dr Burgundy does about Burgundy wine...). Why choose this wine? Well, 2005 is an abundantly fruity and pleasing vintage and drinking delightfully now. It is a crowd-pleaser, no co-diner would feel let down by the aromas or the flavour. More to the pinot, this NSG is a superb blend of brambles, black currant and red apple acidity. Full flavoured but in a way surprisingly gentle. Matched well with the salmon coated with licorice jelly and the powdered pigeon with black pudding coulis. Always reassuring when a famous name meets expectations.

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