Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru "La Dominode" 2004, Bruno Clair

The Bruno Clair domaine, based in the little-known northern Cote-de-Nuits village of Marsannay, has an impressive selection of reds with many grands crus. This Savigny 1er Cru from 2004 confirms my view that even quality conscious producers faced a mammoth task to craft ripe fruit and age-worthy wines from the cloud-blocked 2004 vintage. While cool weather producers elegance in white Burgundy it results in an unpleasant green edge in pinot. This Savigny starts with hawthorn, rhubarb, red currant stalk and tomato stalk. Final aromas are equally disappointing: chalk and walnut dust. Linear, sharp and green with a flavour of unripe black currant. My word, this is even painful with cheese! Need I say it again? Avoid 2004 reds.