Pouilly-Fuissé "Cuvée R" 2005, Roger Lassarat

This was a one-off cuvée -- an experiment vinified in 100 per cent new oak. For Americans this would be a big success but for those in search of unique personality in their wines rather than an overwhelming sensation of fruit, oak and alcohol this cuvée was not a good idea! (Comments on that generalization most welcome - ed.) Its a very rich wine, vanilla fudge aromas, tarte aux cérises, crème anglaise. Heavy, rich, bourgeois. None of the fresh peach and melon fruit that distinguishes Pouilly from Napa. But for some people this would be the crowning glory.