Pernand-Vergelesses 2004, Domaine Rollin Père et Fils
One whiff of this Pernand and I knew it would be true to the appellation and true to the vintage. That is a compliment to the wine-maker but to some extent a criticism of the village in this hard-to-ripen millésime. Raw licorice root, hawthorn bark, red currant leaf, chalk and unripe raspberry. Thin red currant fruit and vegetal flavours on the palate. Also a sensation of licking a dusty piece of flint. This wine is well-balanced and probably represents the best that could be squeezed from not-quite-ripe pinot in the tricky 2004 harvest. A true connoisseur's wine in the sense that if you don't understand the history you won't appreciate it at all. Photo shows a pinot berry in the Pernand vineyards in mid-September 2007.