Pernand-Vergelesses "Les Belles Filles" 2006, Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard

Pernand, one of the unsung villages of the Côte d'Or, nestles under limestone cliffs which give the wines their trademark austere quality. This white Pernand is made by Jean-Jacques Girard, a Savigny-based producer who, rather impressively, can trace his wine-making origins back to 1529. As with most quality-conscious producers the domaine's focus is on vineyard management and the quality control offered by a modern cuverie. This wine has a promising future but like the rosetta stone is tricky to decipher. Reticent "cold" aromas of damp clay, apple trees and daffodils with a hint of grated barnacle shell (I'm not making this up, try it!). Tangy green apple, lime and sour almond flavours. Wait until 2010 for the wine to open and soften. Since this tasting note has a historical flavour I would like to recommend the British Museum's clock room as an excellent location to sober up after a liquid lunch.


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