Chablis 1er Cru "Montmain" 2006, Domaine de la Conciergerie

One won't be ringing the bell for the concièrge to trot down to the local Repaire de Bacchus for another bottle of this underperforming wine from la Conciergerie. This 1er Cru Chablis, from one of the larger and better known lieu-dits, has a tame nose of stainless steel-vinified chardonnay grapes: citrus, chalk and a hint of cream. Tight and refreshing on the palate with zesty green apple acidity and a dry finish. I don't believe this is a fine wine coiled in its shell which in time will explode into life. This is less interesting than the recently-tasted André Tremblay Chablis which on reflection was rather nice. For the cognoscenti doesn't ring true: like Porterhouse Blue.

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