Bourgogne Blanc 2006, Etienne Sauzet

One gulp of this white Burgundy and I ran to check when the Jeroboams in St John's Wood closes. We are talking about the value wine of the decade. Without a doubt this is declassified Meursault or Puligny given the depth, complexity and minerality. Aromas of citrus, hawthorn, fennel and beech-smoked salmon. Excellent concentration on the palate which would be impressive for a Puligny never mind a regional appellation. Then the wonderful 2006 acidity and minerality. I feel sorry for people who bought 2005 white Burgundy because 2005 was a good claret vintage. Both 2004 and 2006 are far superior for white Burgundies. I could write more but I'm off to buy a case of this fine wine. Although I do have a rigorously constructed quality scale this wine is hors classe. Call it a noble woman in peasant's clothing.

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