Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "La Maltroie" 2004, Bernard Moreau & Fils

We tasted the domaine's 2004s in May 2006 and they were showing incredibly well even then. Bernard Moreau has handed the wine-making duties to his two sons which is why he can now spend time hosting tastings and hanging out in his vineyard. The Maltroie has evolved quickly and pleasantly. The colour already has a brassy hue, initial aromas of tangerine, apricot, almond. Becomes significantly bigger with nectarine, cinnamon and hazelnut. Turns towards a distant aroma of treacle pudding without being cloying. Thick nectarine and ripe tangerine fruit flavours, marvellous concentration with a real kick on the finish. This is a big and very tasty Chassagne that could feature on Page 3. Will drink well for another 3 years. The exclamation Not Bad At All resonates around London.

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