Meursault 1er Cru "Charmes" 2002, Mestre-Michelot
Medium yellow, slightly golden colour, highly reflective with glamourous legs. First nose is faint and suggests buttered leeks with wafts of white truffle oil. Evolves to a potent Dorset Bell Heather honey and the type of all round opulence that Puligny vignerons complain about and why Rodolphe d'Arjuzon calls Meursault the "Chelsea of Burgundy". Ends on the pastry and marzipan aromas of a hot Galette des Rois. On the palate the wine is fresh, savoury and rich. The finish is dry from oak tannins but with intensity on the upper palate. A legitimate complaint is a lack of fruit definition in the mouth. Tertiary aromas will be more complete in 2 years. The power and glory of this Meursault would work well with cote de veau, poulet de bresse, omelette with piemonte truffles or even sweetmeats. Tasted at Glyndebourne Opera between Acts One and Two of Cosi fan tutte.