Auxey-Duresses 2004, Michel Prunier

Tasted at the Restaurant Au Grand Balcon in Beaune. Dark cherry colour with athletic legs reflecting the 13% alcohol. First nose of oak, chalk and licorice. Evolves over 10 minutes to offer black cherry and red currant. Relatively potent. In the mouth the wine has good balance, it’s a classic “villages” Auxey with cherry and oak flavours. Good impact initially although not much length. Touched by the 2004 struggle to reach maturity. Auxeys are always a little rustic in a positive way: a bramble-entwined hedgerow. Will evolve for another 2 years. Another half-bottle, so invoking Bevan-Chua reasoning, the full bottle will improve until 2011.